Business - Modern Farmer https://modernfarmer.com/tag/business/ Farm. Food. Life. Fri, 30 Aug 2024 04:44:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 https://modernfarmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/cropped-favicon-1-32x32.png Business - Modern Farmer https://modernfarmer.com/tag/business/ 32 32 This Immersive Farm Apprenticeship is Training the Next Generation of Farmers https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/this-immersive-farm-apprenticeship-is-training-the-next-generation-of-farmers/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/this-immersive-farm-apprenticeship-is-training-the-next-generation-of-farmers/#respond Fri, 30 Aug 2024 11:30:34 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=164702 Most July mornings, Charlotte Maffie rises with the alarm at 5:30 a.m., sleepily dons her “stinky, stinky chore clothes” and heads to the red barn to begin the daily morning tasks of greeting and caring for the 60 cows and 40 chickens at Catskill Waygu at Hilltop Farm in upstate New York. In the 90-minute […]

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Most July mornings, Charlotte Maffie rises with the alarm at 5:30 a.m., sleepily dons her “stinky, stinky chore clothes” and heads to the red barn to begin the daily morning tasks of greeting and caring for the 60 cows and 40 chickens at Catskill Waygu at Hilltop Farm in upstate New York.

Charlotte Maffie. Photography courtesy of Charlotte Maffie.

In the 90-minute ritual, she distributes buckets of grain and hay for the cows’ breakfast, scrapes away animal feces, fills the water trough bucket by bucket, milks the dairy cows, feeds the barnyard cats and new kittens, and shepherds sometimes recalcitrant cows out to pasture. Next, she replenishes feed and water for the chickens and lets them out into their area.

It’s a lot of work. “To be honest, I take a nap every single morning,” laughs Maffie, who is studying chemistry at Bates College. “But I’ve learned more about cows and chickens than I ever knew before.” She’s part of the Anne Saxelby Legacy Fund (ASLF), a unique month-long immersive farm apprenticeship program that provides farm internships and apprentice opportunities to students and career changers.

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Find out why new farmers often face hurdles when starting out, and how one apprenticeship program wants to fix that.

The ASLF was founded in 2022 by the family and friends of pioneering cheesemonger Anne Saxelby of Saxelby Cheesemongers after her sudden passing. Saxelby, a beloved figure in the cheese world, championed American farmstead cheese, leading to its rise in prominence. Working on farms was life changing for her and instilled a desire to support small producers and change our industrial food system.

“We need to educate this next generation of farmers” in order to bring about systemic change, says Susie Cover, the ASLF’s executive director. Those who enter farming-adjacent careers will also be better equipped to make change. Learning the art of affinage (the process of aging cheese), herd management like Maffie, or how to properly prune plants to encourage stem growth are experiences that students will “never get by learning in a classroom,” she says. “The hands-on part is the most important.”

“The hands-on part is the most important.”

Nearly 100 apprentices are working in 60 farms across the country; one is employed at London’s famed Neal’s Yard Dairy. Placements include produce, animal, hemp, and dairy farms, and cheesemaking and salumi operations in locations aligned with the fund’s mission and values of quality sustainable agriculture.

The program has doubled in size each year; 500 applications were received in 2024, a result of extensive outreach at agriculture, culinary, food studies, and trade programs, postings on job list serves, as well as word of mouth. However, no farm experience is required, stresses Cover, just the ability to handle the physical work and to take initiative. The ASLF is also working to become a college-accredited program.

Apprentices are paid an hourly wage of $20 for a 40-hour workweek and an expense stipend; the ASLF covers transportation and housing costs, removing barriers for prospective applicants and for farms to receive much-needed help.There are frequent check-ins with the apprentices and farms to ensure all is going smoothly.

Mona Ziabari. Photography courtesy of Mona Ziabari.

For apprentices, not having to worry about costs is a huge relief. “To [be able to] put my all into it made me want to put more energy and effort into making the most of this program,” says Mona Ziabari, an apprentice at Fisheye Farms, a sustainably run urban farm in Detroit. A student with limited funds, she’s unsure if she could have applied.

Zibari is a food studies major at New York University and an accomplished cook who envisions a career in the culinary arts. “It is super important to learn about the food production side because I think a lot of people in our society are not educated on what it looks like,” she says.

Zibari had worked in restaurants, but she was taken aback by the physical stamina farming requires. Fisheye’s owners arranged to have a bicycle for Ziabari to bike to work from another urban farm where she is housed, and to stage at farm-to-table restaurants on her days off to broaden her understanding.

Ryan McPherson. Photography courtesy of Ryan McPherson.

“We wouldn’t have been able to have apprentices if they weren’t paid for,” says Ryan McPherson, owner of Glidden Point Oyster Farms in Maine. The ASLF approached McPherson this year to include an aquaculture opportunity. It also added five urban farms to its roster.

McPherson was impressed by the caliber of the applicants, farms, and vetting process. He appreciates the opportunity to share knowledge, since farmed aquaculture is still a very young industry and its connection to and overlap with agriculture is not yet well explored. “It is important,” says McPherson, “to be in those conversations.” Since his farm’s two apprentices had prior terrestrial farming experience, he expects that they’re able to share insights into similarities and differences into the two types of farming. The apprentices have been grading out and redistributing seed, conducting farm maintenance, and washing and packing oysters for sale and shipping.

Bliss Battle. Photography courtesy of Bliss Battle.

To Bliss Battle, an alumna of New York City’s Brooklyn Grange, the financial support signaled that “people wanted to see me succeed,” she says. Battle left art school to try farming because it “involved manual labor and being in nature.” She says she “came out way more confident in my skills, like how to use all the tools, and in production-level farming,” and developed an appreciation of growing food for mutual aid and not for profit. She was later hired at another farm by a former Grange supervisor.

Battle is now attending welding school so she can repair farm machinery. “I want to be an asset to my community,” she says. “And my sense of community has been more solidified through the work I’ve been doing as a farmhand.”

“I want to be an asset to my community.”

Ziabari’s eyes were also opened by a blend of practical knowledge and sociocultural perspectives. “I’ve been learning how culture and race intersect with food production,” she says, noting that “food deserts are prevalent” in the more diverse areas of Detroit, already a multi-racial and ethnic city.

Ziabari credits the city’s growing urban farm movement for improving food access for marginalized communities. The farms have a “progressive approach to incorporating culture,” she says, growing produce that is meaningful to residents in a nod to the city’s history.

“It’s just crazy how people don’t think about it in that way,” she says. “I’m one of them. You’re not forced to think about it unless you’re doing it, having conversations about it, or actually having to get on your knees and do the work.”

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Find out more about the growing urban farm movement in Detroit.

The experience Maffie gained with farms, cows and cheesemaking—her farm’s owner is developing a cheese program—fit her interest in food science.

She was also surprised at some of the lesser-known ways politics and government affect farms. She learned that farms are required to pay for the USDA inspectors who inspect their meat, which can “put a strain on both butchers and small farms,” says Maffie, because larger farms can slaughter so many more animals that the cost becomes nominal. Also, since only one USDA inspector shows up at a slaughterhouse, the animals on smaller farms wind up subject to more scrutiny than animals at larger ones. With higher volumes, employees there assist the lone USDA inspector who can’t watch each process at once.

Charlotte Maffie. Photography courtesy of Charlotte Maffie.

Remarkably, while some feeder programs may be more diverse than in the past, the ASLF team was surprised that nearly 70 percent of this year’s applications came from women. Farming though is a white and male-dominated profession; the number of female farmers has held steady in recent years, according to USDA data.

“I think it is probably a backlash to the fact that it is a male-dominated field,” says Maffie. “Now, there’s a bunch of women who are like, ‘No, I want to do that, too,’ so I’m going to start setting myself up to do that.”

Surprisingly, women “outnumber males in aquaculture in Maine,” says McPherson. He bought his farms from women owners and his staff is well over half female.

“I think it is really cool that people can see [food production] as a career option, especially young women,” says Battle. She says programs such as the ASLF can have a huge impact on people’s lives. “Your formative years, you can see a subversive career path and that it is sustainable. And you can go where you want with it,” she adds.

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Want to get started? Check out our guide for young farmers.

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Your Dog’s Food Probably Comes From a Factory Farm. Meet Some Folks Who Want to Change That https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/dog-food-factory-farms-entrepreneurs-sustainable/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/dog-food-factory-farms-entrepreneurs-sustainable/#comments Fri, 23 Aug 2024 18:15:00 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=164338 There are some 90 million dogs in the US alone, and their protein needs are rattling the human food chain. Humans are worried about what’s in dog food, not to mention what dog food is in––way too much non-recyclable packaging.  Buying trends show that pet owners are gravitating toward human-grade ingredients. “Dog food” is regulated […]

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There are some 90 million dogs in the US alone, and their protein needs are rattling the human food chain. Humans are worried about what’s in dog food, not to mention what dog food is in––way too much non-recyclable packaging.

 Buying trends show that pet owners are gravitating toward human-grade ingredients. “Dog food” is regulated loosely compared to human fare, allowing even meat deemed unfit for human consumption due to things such as disease and contamination and moldy grains, a recipe for endless pet food recalls. 

The pet food industry traditionally relies on factory farm byproducts for its ingredients, a practice the industry touts as more sustainable as it produces less waste and cheaper food. But dog owners distrust this mysterious supply chain. 

Your dog definitely wants this dehydrated chicken head chew.  Photo courtesy of Farm Hounds

As shoppers seek more wholesome foods for pets, some also try to make eco-friendly choices, which seems to contradict a diet of human-grade foods, especially meat. Agriculture contributes at least 11 percent of US greenhouse gas emissions, and meat is the biggest contributor among foods. 

Is there a way to make healthier dog food that won’t burden the planet so much? Here is how a few companies are dishing up new models.

Farm Hounds

Family farms often struggle to stay profitable as agriculture becomes more concentrated. There were 141,733 fewer farms in the US in 2022 than in 2017, according to the Census of Agriculture. 

Livestock farmers who practice regenerative farming, improving soil and biodiversity with methods such as rotational grazing, strive to waste nothing and can still wind up with leftovers. Like the hog tails, hides, organs, and hooves that aren’t always suitable for compost. 

Farm Hounds jerky. Photo courtesy of Farm Hounds

“From our experience, most regenerative farms don’t have much of an active market for these products,” says Stephen Calsbeek, co-founder of Farm Hounds, a company that partners with regenerative farms to make single-ingredient treats for dogs.

“It is rare to meet a new farm and hear they are already capturing and selling something we are looking for,” he says. Where items like muscle meat and organs have a route to human markets, Farm Hounds looks for trim, miscuts and excess volume.

It started sourcing scraps from places such as White Oak Pastures, a farm in Bluffton, Georgia committed to regenerative and humane farming techniques. 

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White Oak Pastures uses “radically traditional” farming methods. Learn how they are storing more carbon in the soil than pasture-raised cows emit during their lifetimes.

Customers couldn’t get enough of the local grass-farmed treats. With that, the store’s pup-loving proprietors launched Farm Hounds, dehydrating raw items in their home kitchen, which they now sell online as well.

Over time, collaboration with a single farm grew into a whole network, with new partners continually being added to meet the demand.  

“We are talking with very busy farmers, who then have to sort out how to capture and store the products we are looking for,” says Calsbeek. “It can take six to 12 months before we see our first order.” Farms that use an offsite processor have to ask the processor to return parts they aren’t used to capturing. “Depending on how strict the USDA inspector is, it can require the farm and the processing facility to update their HACCP plan just to capture something for us.” 

For most of the farms, the added revenue from using every part of the animal has been “impactful,” says Calsbeek. Some have changed their practices. Polyface, a renowned farm in Virginia, now breeds its birds on-site, having learned that Farm Hounds would purchase the roosters (male chicks are culled at hatcheries). At times, it’s a safety net if a human market is lost; during the COVID lockdown, for example, a key buyer for one farm stopped ordering products that had already been raised. “We’ve seen farms able to hire more workers in their community due to our purchasing.”

Today, in addition to a variety of treats and chews of all sizes, Farm Hounds sells items that even make use of their own leftovers. In recent years, the company, which now has a nationwide following, has landed on the Inc. 5000 list, ranking among America’s fastest-growing independent businesses. 

The Conscious Pet

No discussion of vanishing farmland or concerns about wasting human grade food on pets is complete without a mention of food waste—when 30 percent to 40 percent of the entire US food supply gets dumped in landfills. The Environmental Protection Agency estimates the US discards nearly 40 million tons of food every year, more than any other country. 

One solution is to upcycle it. The Conscious Pet, an Austin-based company started by Mason Arnold and Jessica Kezar Arnold, makes human-grade dog food and treats by dehydrating scraps from local restaurants, breweries, and food distributors.

This isn’t stuff they glean from trash cans. 

“Think of a kitchen that trims their steaks or chicken before cooking their meals,” says Arnold, a sustainability-minded entrepreneur who hosts a podcast with Kezar-Arnold called “A Mostly Green Life”—part of a community of people focused on “clean living” and environmental stewardship. 

Initially, they partnered with a composting facility, capturing suitable meat and vegetable scraps, which they now collect directly from a variety of sources. While composting helps keep waste out of landfills, they knew it wasn’t the best use of edible food. 

The Conscious Pet founders Mason Arnold and Jessica Kezar Arnold. Photo by Jessica Kezar

So, they experimented with recipes in their home kitchen, creating products to sell in the perfect incubator—Austin, home to 500,000 pups and owners who spend the most on dog food of any major city. A city ordinance requires restaurants to responsibly dispose of organic waste, which can mean a solution such as repurposed pet food.

“The first batches looked like dog food already, just not in the right shape as it was mostly powder with a few clumps,” says Arnold. “It took us six months or so to develop the first usable recipe and, honestly, it took over 1.5 years to perfect it.”

DoggieBag, the human-grade kibble, is lightly cooked and shelf stable. The recipe uses 85 percent sustainably sourced animal protein and about 15 percent organic vegetables. Only the vitamin additives aren’t from scraps.

The zero-waste company, which uses clean energy and compostable packaging, kicked off in 2022 by offering locals a chance to own a part of it. It is currently moving to a new facility and plans to relaunch its line of products this fall, says Arnold.

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Some cities will compost dog poop, but you can do it yourself at home.

“It isn’t hard to get something going, but [it] does require investment in the machinery to accomplish the process,” says Arnold. Another challenge has been the stigma around food waste. People often imagine the ruins of meals in trash cans, not kitchen trimmings and dented packaging.

“That fresh product is still consumable and delicious and could be used to make soups and such for humans, but we take it and make pet food out of it.”

With the country’s ample supply of leftovers, it’s a model that could be used in other cities, says Arnold.

“We’re excited to start partnering with others who want to implement this technology, and welcome any inquiries from people or companies wanting to do it in their town.” 

Open Farm

A new national strategy for reducing food waste by 50 percent by 2030 includes “raising and breeding insects as livestock.” 

Even meat giant Tyson Foods is getting into insects for use in the pet food, aquaculture, and livestock industries.

Vying to be the next big protein are crickets, black soldier fly larvae (grubs) and mealworms, all approved for use in dog food in the US. These tiny animals yield high-quality protein, can eat food waste, and can be eaten as food. Their excrement, frass, is a rich fertilizer for agriculture.

When it comes to sustainability, experts say insect farming uses less land and water, and it has fewer emissions. With their high food conversion rate, insects can convert two kilograms of feed into one kg of insect mass, while cattle require eight kg of feed to produce one kg of body weight gain. Crickets need six times less feed than cattle, four times less than sheep, and two times less than pigs and broiler chickens to produce the same amount of protein. Black soldier fly larvae, among the most efficient insect species, develop in two to three weeks.

So far, consumers aren’t rushing in. Only one US company has developed an insect-based kibble, while one that started with a bang—Grubbly Farms—has switched its promising entry into dog food to backyard chickens.

But the infrastructure is growing. EnviroFlight, a company that produces black soldier fly larvae, opened the first US production facility in Maysville, Kentucky in 2018, while Oregon-based Chapul Farms is working on various aspects of insect agriculture. Tyson plans to build a US facility that supports every stage of insect protein production from breeding to hatching of larvae. All the companies, even leading dog food brands, see insect-based pet food as a growing market.

It’s similar to traditional dog food, trading ground-up meat or fish for insects as the main protein. Grubs, the most common source, provide all 10 essential amino acids dogs require.

Adding an insect kibble made sense to Canadian dog food maker Open Farm, which put grubs on the menu in 2022, sourcing protein for its black soldier fly larvae kibble with consideration of its environmental impacts and processing. Since there’s no animal welfare certification for grubs, it  sought suppliers that adhere to the Five Freedoms of Animal Welfare, ensuring healthy living conditions. The grubs are humanely euthanized with high heat.

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Maybe it’s too soon for your dog, but the buzzy edibles trend is gaining traction. Read how some appetites are changing.

But it turned out that “the demand was a little low,” says spokesperson Bridget Trumper. The company has discontinued its Kind Earth Insect recipe. “We hope as these options become more popular, we will be able to bring this recipe back, and introduce additional insects.”

There was a twist, however, in pet owners snubbing the unconventional animal protein.

“Surprisingly, our plant-based recipes were more popular and we will be continuing to offer those,” says Trumper. The company thinks it has to do with greater familiarity with a vegetarian diet. For now, it plans to monitor the trends and educate pet owners on the environmental benefits of alternative proteins.

“We believe, in time, pet parents will come around to the idea,” says Trumper.

Innovations in pet food can make a difference on a local scale and beyond. Farm Hounds’ use of farm waste can be adopted in other areas, and the company has gone from selling products in its local stores to a nationwide online business with a network of farm partners that has extended to other states, including California—and it ranks as one of the fastest-growing independent businesses, making the Inc. 5000 list the past two years. Food waste is another resource that could be tapped around the country to improve pet health with human-grade by-products. As Mars, the world’s largest pet food manufacturer, Tyson, and other companies add insects to the menu while researchers seek ways to breed bigger insects faster, the potential grows for reducing the impacts of factory meat farming.

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Spotlight On a Cannery Trying to Revive A Dormant Fishing Tradition https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/tinned-fish-clams-oysters-heritage/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/tinned-fish-clams-oysters-heritage/#comments Thu, 22 Aug 2024 12:00:34 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=164360 In the summer of 2010, the 135-year-old Stinson’s sardine cannery in Prospect Harbor, Maine shuttered. “It was probably for good reason,” says Chris Sherman, CEO of Island Creek Oysters, an aquaculture business based in Duxbury, Massachusetts. The plant was no longer economically viable due to federal restrictions on herring catch. Stinson’s was one of the […]

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In the summer of 2010, the 135-year-old Stinson’s sardine cannery in Prospect Harbor, Maine shuttered. “It was probably for good reason,” says Chris Sherman, CEO of Island Creek Oysters, an aquaculture business based in Duxbury, Massachusetts. The plant was no longer economically viable due to federal restrictions on herring catch. Stinson’s was one of the last remaining seafood canneries in Maine—and the last sardine cannery in the United States—marking the end of the country’s 120-year-long sardine canning tradition. While reducing herring quota is intended to prevent overfishing, in coastal villages such as Prospect Harbor, such measures can have a devastating effect on the local economy: Canneries like Stinson’s not only provide jobs but also serve as a critical link that ensures steady, year-round business for fishermen.

Sherman is no stranger himself to the environmental and economic challenges of running an aquaculture business. Island Creek is a vertically integrated oyster operation, meaning it both farms and distributes its own oysters. But he’s still intent on turning the tides of the canning industry. In July, Sherman announced the launch of his latest venture, the Island Creek Cannery, the first ever single-origin canning facility of its kind in the US.

Chris Sherman. Photography by Nate Hoffman/Huckberry.

 

Long before the pandemic sent American appetites seaward, stoking our interest in convenient, high-end canned fish, Island Creek—a primarily fresh seafood business—had its eye on the tin. “We’ve always been interested in democratizing oysters and shellfish in general,” says Sherman. In 2016, Island Creek opened The Portland Oyster Shop—the company’s first full-service restaurant—in downtown Portland, Maine. But the raw bar-only concept was running lean, and Sherman quickly realized he needed another food option to bulk out the menu that wouldn’t require a setup to make hot food. Taking cues from already-established tin-centric restaurants such as NYC’s Maiden Lane and Boston’s haley.henry, Sherman opted for serving conservas, a culinary delicacy popular across the Mediterranean, whereby seafood is preserved in brines, olive oils, and other flavorful sauces. Conservas store indefinitely and require little back-of-house labor, an operational boon. But would the market find them satisfying? “I was convinced at that point that it was just not going to work, but people really responded to [the conservas],” says Sherman. “That gave us a pretty good indicator that this thing has some legs.”

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Tinned fish is trending. Can you trust the label?

To meet the newfound customer demand for tinned fish, Island Creek began importing, distributing, and co-branding its own line of conservas for Conservas Mariscadora, a collective of independent female shellfish harvesters—or mariscadoras—in Galicia, Spain who harvest fully traceable seafood from the waters of the Cantabrian Sea. While relatively new to the US market, in Spain, conservas are ubiquitous. “The Spanish eat a ton of seafood,” says Sherman, who began traveling the country researching sustainable fish farms on an Eisenhower Fellowship in 2018. “When we eat french fries, they’re eating shellfish.” Thus, canning became a necessary innovation, entrenching itself into Spanish culture. Sherman noticed this most starkly while shopping at El Corte Inglés, where tin after tin of conservas stocked four full aisles’ worth of grocery store shelves. “The octopus section was bigger than the soup section at most American grocery stores,” says Sherman.

That’s when things began to gel for Sherman. For Island Creek, a company familiar with the challenges of manufacturing a seasonal product, packing seafood in tins presented a shiny solution. By canning stateside, they could pack their seasonal product at peak quality while creating inventory that could be sold year-round at a good value. Additionally, the growing popularity of conservas in the US meant the demand for high-quality fish aligned with the company’s own standards.

Tinned clams from the Island Creek Cannery. Photography byEmily Hagen.

Located in the historic fishing community of New Bedford, Massachusetts, the Island Creek Oyster Cannery is a small operation with big ambitions. Blending Island Creek Oysters’ already established brand of sustainable aquaculture with the American market’s newfound hunger for high-quality, shelf-stable seafood, Island Creek is resurrecting a dormant US tradition that’s existed since the 1800s—albeit repurposing it with Mediterranean ideals to meet the needs of the contemporary market.

While Island Creek has built an entire business out of fresh oysters, it hasn’t yet canned any. “Oyster supply has been pretty tight,” says Sherman, which drives the prices up. “They’re also the most difficult shellfish to can well.” Instead, the company is focused on farming clams, as well as sourcing from other New England seafood producers it’s met and vetted, such as Cherrystone Aqua-Farms in Virginia. “We’re definitely branching out, but we’re trying to keep everything single-origin, single-producer, and we’re trying to keep everything working with responsible harvesters and farmers that meet our standards,” says Sherman. The term “single-origin” is used broadly across the specialty food and beverage space (think chocolate, coffee, and whiskey) and refers to foods from a specific farm, location, or source. The same is true in aquaculture. It’s a strong marker of fish and seafood traceability—and thus, quality.

Photography by Emily Hagen.

Having a cannery in the US that sources seafood exclusively from American shores presents a significant opportunity for American seafood producers. Island Creek is confident that this venture will support coastal communities across the United States by providing a stable, year-round supply of seafood. This steady inventory will benefit the numerous seafood-related businesses that are a major part of the East Coast’s fishing economy.

Photography by Emily Hagen.

“Since we’ve publicized the cannery, I’ve had half the medium- to small-scale seafood producers in the Northeast reach out to me about handling their product,” says Sherman. “We just now need to connect the dots and make the demand there as well. I think we’re doing that, but it’s brick by brick.” To boost the lowbrow reputation of canned fish that still dominates much of the US market, Island Creek is choosing to can in European format tins—generally wider and shallower than a typical tuna or cat food tin—which he hopes will telegraph the quality of the product and justify the premium price point.

With little in the way of tradition in the United States, the tinned fish market is still finding its sea legs; Sherman notes there is “some chaos in the market” with tinned fish prices ranging anywhere from $4 to $30, but the company is making strides towards its goal of democratizing shellfish. “I didn’t think we would sell to 800 chefs around the country every week…but honestly, we sell a ton of tin fish to chefs and restaurants that aren’t tinned fish restaurants. They’re using them as an ingredient in a pasta dish, or on rice. And they’re using it because they don’t have the labor and the shucking and the steaming and the sauce making,” says Sherman. He is confident that other canneries like his will follow suit, especially along the East Coast where fish stocks and shellfish farms are abundant.

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Meet the lobster women making waves in Maine.

However, Sherman is candid about the challenges that lie ahead: In countries such as Spain and Portugal, where most canneries are run by generations of families, labor costs are a fraction of those in the United States. Nevertheless, canning has long been, and continues to be, a revolutionary process with a significant impact on ensuring sustainable aquaculture practices and preserving local fishing communities that rely on canning during the off-season. It also benefits consumers, who can enjoy high-quality seafood at a more reasonable price point than fresh seafood. Says Sherman, “We’re blazing the trail—for better or worse.”

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Meet the Modern Farmer Cracking Cold Storage in the Coldest Places https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/meet-modern-farmer-cold-storage/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/meet-modern-farmer-cold-storage/#respond Mon, 19 Aug 2024 15:50:02 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=164346 In Fairbanks, Alaska, a radio advertisement from a local heat products store, The Woodway, says, “Fall is winter’s two-minute warning.” The growing season is short, from mid-May to mid-September, and it cuts straight to winter. You find the ground frozen by the first week of October. Temperatures eventually drop to -40 degrees Fahrenheit. During winter, […]

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In Fairbanks, Alaska, a radio advertisement from a local heat products store, The Woodway, says, “Fall is winter’s two-minute warning.” The growing season is short, from mid-May to mid-September, and it cuts straight to winter. You find the ground frozen by the first week of October. Temperatures eventually drop to -40 degrees Fahrenheit. During winter, the community is critically food insecure.

 

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Find out why Alaskan farms can be out of reach for many new farmers.

 

When farmers in cold climates take a well-earned winter rest, their communities still want local produce. Grocery chains provide food through winter, shipping goods from across the world, but this is expensive and can weaken local self-reliance and food security. Having no local options makes a town more dependent on outside food sources that the community does not control, and it reduces the amount of dollars staying local. It also renders Fairbanks less food secure because, like other rural towns in cold climates, it is at the end of a long, tenuous supply chain with a high chance of disruption from too much snow on hundreds of miles of roads to shipping delays as seen during the COVID-19 pandemic. A lack of local produce during winter also means many farmers lose income from fall to spring.

 

Sam Knapp, a farmer in Fairbanks, has found a way to bridge that gap by building his own affordable, accessible cold storage. This has allowed him to sell his produce through one of the country’s harshest winters. He combines a science background with experience running his own farm, and after speaking with cold storage innovators across the country, he is sharing what he has learned in his new book, Beyond the Root Cellar.

Sam Knapp’s farm in winter. Photography via Sam Knapp

 

Knapp has a B.S. in chemistry and physics. “My first job out of college was doing thermal modeling as an engineer. It is in my wheelhouse to think about heat transfer and phase change.” He then experimented with cold storage running a farm in Michigan. Knapp used Google Scholar to review studies on the storage needs of each vegetable he wanted to grow. For example, Knapp found that winter squash stores best after curing outside, which involves healing and hardening its rind, but curing will not happen in colder and wetter climates. To make up for uncontrollable wet and cold weather, Knapp introduced humidity control measures into his storage plans.

 

In 2020, Knapp moved to Fairbanks to start Offbeet Farm. There, he found farmers using root cellars and other cold storage techniques that were costeffective at temperatures well below zero degrees. But few farmers, if any, stored for more than a month or two. “Most farms here sell out by early September.”

 

So, Knapp set out to build a structure on his 1.5-acre farm that could store his produce through the entire winter, a time when temperatures drop to -40 degrees for weeks on end. The structure is 25 square feet, and looks like an ordinary outdoor shed, but it rests on specialized concrete forms that encase insulation and act as retaining walls. He now runs a successful over-winter Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) and sells his produce through March.

 

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LEARN MORE

How solar-powered refrigerators could cool climate change.

 

“I built this building myself, and the total infrastructure cost was about $55,000. I have the capability of storing 35,000 to 40,000 pounds of produce.” With around 120 CSA customers, Knapp currently stores 25,000 pounds of produce, and he plans to expand each year.

Knapp’s cold storage shed. Photography via Knapp.

Knapp says cold storage provides additional revenue streams and work-life balance; both are hard to come by for small farmers. “Farmers around here get half the year off, and they enjoy that, but their growing season is intense. It’s rough. It’s hard to make it through that time. I rarely feel burnt out from farming.” With cold storage, farmers do not have to harvest and sell all of their produce within the short growing season. It also helps balance self-care and family.

 

Seasonal workers on the farm. Photography via Knapp.

 

Storability varies by product: While Knapp has found that he and his customers are still eating their cabbage into the summer of the following growing year, storing his onions has proven tougher. He is still searching for an onion varietal that can store well after almost 24 hours of sunlight during the subarctic summer, followed by a cold and damp fall.

 

Every farmer experiments, and Knapp is no exception. He’s made some surprising discoveries. For instance, Knapp had not anticipated the warmth made by the vegetables themselves. After being picked, vegetables still respirate, (that is, metabolize carbohydrates), and produce heat as a byproduct—so much so that even when outside temperatures hit -10 degrees, Knapp has to cool the unit to lower the inside temperature down to 32 degrees. “This last winter, there was one time when it was -25 out, and my cooling fans were turning on.”

 

Knapp in storage unit. Photography via Knapp.

 

While Knapp is proud of his innovations, he still relies on more established farmers in the area for best practices in storing and selling produce at a commercial scale through a Fairbanks winter. “Half of it is hard research. The other half is talking to other farmers.” Building cold storage also comes with up-front investment and risk. “It seems very risky at the start, (to put) all this money down to get into it in the first place.”

 

To learn how others got over this risk and technical difficulty, Knapp interviewed cold-storage innovators from Winnipeg to North Carolina in Beyond the Root Cellar. It also shares practical know-how, ultimately showing that cold storage is within reach for all farmers. For example, readers learn that many farmers can take advantage of their existing summer storage facilities.

“Many people are primed to do this already,” he says. “You can start storing 3,000 to 5,000 pounds of produce by investing a couple thousand bucks just converting some space you already have.”

Never one to get ahead of himself, Knapp also points out that, in every interview, he heard the same touchstone: “Start small.” Knapps book, Beyond the Root Cellar, will be released November 14.

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New York is Suing One of the Country’s Largest Meat Processors for Greenwashing https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/greenwashing-lawsuit/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/greenwashing-lawsuit/#comments Thu, 15 Aug 2024 12:00:40 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=164171 JBS USA is one of the largest meat processors in the world, self-reportedly generating 32 billion pounds of product each year. A few years ago, JBS announced that it would “achieve net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2040.” Typically, this is understood to mean reducing as much pollution as possible, while undertaking climate benefitting measures to […]

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JBS USA is one of the largest meat processors in the world, self-reportedly generating 32 billion pounds of product each year. A few years ago, JBS announced that it would “achieve net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2040.” Typically, this is understood to mean reducing as much pollution as possible, while undertaking climate benefitting measures to offset unavoidable emissions. JBS promised to eliminate Amazon deforestation from its supply chain within a few years and cut its emissions by 30 percent by 2030. It promised to deliver bacon and chicken wings as a climate solution—with zero emissions.

 

And then it got sued for it.

 

New York Attorney General Letitia James filed a lawsuit against JBS because its claim of pursuing net neutral emissions is not substantiated by actual changes in company behavior. Not only has the company not established an accurate enough estimate of its emissions, it has documented plans to increase production, which will increase emissions. JBS USA’s parent company reported greenhouse gas emissions of 71 million tons in 2021. This is higher than the total emissions of some countries. Concentrated animal agriculture is high in emissions because of things such as improper manure management and land used to grow feed. However, JBS’s estimate of its footprint does not include the emissions impact of deforestation—the company is responsible for clearing millions of acres in the Amazon.

 

This lawsuit alleges that JBS made these declarations anyway, knowing that it would be received positively by the public, creating a financial incentive. This is known as “greenwashing.”

 

JBS is not the only company to make extravagant climate claims. Many companies have made similar pledges. As a business, committing to reducing your emissions footprint is a good thing, when it’s done authentically. This lawsuit is an attempt to hold a company accountable for benefitting from an untrue message.

 

The outcome of this case could set an important precedent in the food industry and beyond.

 

sketch of cow

 

Futurewashing

Tom Lyon, PhD, of the University of Michigan and the Greenwash Lab, says that he thinks James has a good case and could win.

 

“JBS hadn’t done anything to measure their existing footprint,” says Lyon. “So, if you have no idea of what your current footprint is, it’s really hard to develop a credible plan for reducing it over time.”

 

JBS is not the only company that has made a promise to achieve net zero emissions by a certain year. When a promise is not backed by a legitimate plan, this is a particular type of greenwashing calledfuturewashing,” says Lyon.

 

“When we get to this futurewashing, it’s just a story about the future,” says Lyon. “So, there’s no way to verify if it’s true or not, because it hasn’t happened yet.”

READ MORE

Want to eat less meat but aren’t sure where to start? Sign up for Vox’s Meat/Less newsletter course.

There’s still a lot of gray area when it comes to the legal repercussions of greenwashing, but outside of the US, strides are being made.

 

This year, Canada passed a new law that requires companies to back up their sustainability claims. Companies that put forth net zero plans must also shoulder a burden of proof.

 

“If they don’t have any documentation to back it up, then they may be at risk of some sort of litigation,” says Lyon.

 

The United Nations, the Science Based Targets Initiative, and others are reaching a shared, science-backed understanding of what “net zero” can mean in the corporate world.

 

If James wins this case, it will mean that JBS must cease its “net zero by 2040” claims to continue selling its product in New York, potentially having a ripple effect beyond just one state.

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Connect with experts

 

“When you have too many animals in one place, you’re going to have too much waste in one place, and that waste becomes a problem—that waste becomes a pollutant,” says Chris Hunt, Deputy Director of Socially Responsible Agriculture Project (SRAP). Modern Farmer’s reporting is strengthened by the expertise of organizations like SRAP. 

Skepticism and grace

Maisie Ganzler, a strategic advisor for Bon Appétit Management Company, says that bold company goals need to be grounded in reality and transparency. There’s a difference between corporate greenwashing and failing to achieve a goal that was planned.

 

“We do need companies to make bold commitments to stick their neck out, maybe even without having all of their ducks in a row and their plans in place. But that’s very different than making a claim that is seemingly impossible, that you don’t have any plan as to…how to measure, much less how to meet.”

 

In Ganzler’s recent book, You Can’t Market Manure at Lunchtime: And Other Lessons from the Food Industry for Creating a More Sustainable Company, she writes that companies that make positive strides toward authentic sustainability can create a ripple effect toward industry change, for good and bad.

 

“I think that when one company sets the bar, their competitors have to come to that bar,” says Ganzler. “And a lot of positive change is made that way with true leaders raising the bar on their industry and forcing others along. But there is the shadow side of when false promises are made, it inspires other companies to also make false promises to appear competitive.”

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LEARN MORE

Watch Right to Harm, a documentary about how industrial animal production affects communities living nearby.

For companies that want to be leaders in sustainability without greenwashing, Ganzler recommends setting audacious goals with specific plans to achieve them. Don’t make a promise about something that is beyond your scope to know, such as what happens at every stage in the supply chain. If those plans go awry, be transparent with your consumers about why. In her book, Ganzler details an experience she had at Bon Appétit, when she realized that its pork supplier wasn’t meeting the welfare standards to which Bon Appétit had committed. Bon Appétit had inaccurately overstated its supplier’s welfare practices, but found a new supplier and issued a press release owning up to the mistake. Instead of facing backlash, Bon Appétit was praised by the Humane Society for its progress.

 

As for consumers, Ganzler says everyone has a responsibility to do a little bit of research. But in the end, it’s important to approach the companies they shop from with a balanced perspective.

 

“[You should have] both a healthy dose of skepticism, but also on the other side, a healthy dose of grace,” says Ganzler. “You should question commitments that companies are making, but also have grace for companies who aren’t truly trying to do the right thing and may fall short.”

 

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How the Next Generation of Farmers is Getting Creative with Land Access https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/how-the-next-generation-of-farmers-is-getting-creative-with-land-access/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/how-the-next-generation-of-farmers-is-getting-creative-with-land-access/#comments Thu, 01 Aug 2024 19:35:09 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=163563 Check out our companion piece: How to Start a Backyard or Urban Farm—Whether You Own Land or Not As a renter millennial, I wanted to start farming. But as Charlotte says in Pride and Prejudice, “I’ve no money and no prospects.” This is a common sentiment among many student-loan-saddled millennials and Gen Z-ers who want […]

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Check out our companion piece: How to Start a Backyard or Urban Farm—Whether You Own Land or Not

As a renter millennial, I wanted to start farming. But as Charlotte says in Pride and Prejudice, “I’ve no money and no prospects.” This is a common sentiment among many student-loan-saddled millennials and Gen Z-ers who want to work with the land but don’t have land that they own to start gardening or farming.

It’s no secret that the agricultural industry is facing multiple converging challenges including an urgently looming generational shift. According to the 2022 USDA Census of Agriculture, the average age of a farmer is 58, with organic farmers coming in slightly younger at 52. Only 8 percent of the United States’ 3.3 million farmers are under the age of 35, whereas 14 percent are over the age of 75.

What happens when they retire? 

The other confounding factor is that many young people do not have the financial capital to buy a farm outright. Seventy-two percent of millennials, most in their 30s and early 40s, have non-mortgage debt averaging $117,000. 

Maybe a better question is: How can the next generation afford to farm? 

I was able to find a family on Nextdoor who wanted their backyard to be used, and I now have a mini flower farm in Boulder, Colorado there. It turns out my experience is becoming an increasingly common way to start getting your footing as a young or beginning farmer. I spoke to several first-generation farmers based in Denver and Boulder, Colorado who all had different approaches.

Relationship-Based Land Stewardship 

Amy Scanes-Wolfe runs the 1.4-acre Niwot Homestead in a suburban yard that belongs to a family she found through Nextdoor. “We have never written an agreement or signed documents; no money has ever changed hands,” says Scanes-Wolfe. “We truly have been doing this in a relational way.” The Homestead grows vegetables, herbs, grains, and animals such as ducks, pigs, and chickens. Any farm expenses such as seedlings and irrigation setup are paid for by Scanes-Wolfe, but infrastructure investments that add to property value are paid for by the homeowners. 

Amy Scanes-Wolfe harvesting sunflowers at Niwot Homestead. Photo courtesy of Amy Scanes-Wolfe

Scanes-Wolfe volunteered and worked on farms for several years before posting on Nextdoor and connecting with the landowners. She started small, getting to know the family and just growing a personal vegetable garden. “They wanted the property used, but [they] didn’t have a strong driving vision,” says Scanes-Wolfe. She has been able to take the lead on the vision and growth of the farm. Whenever issues arise, such as the roaming habits of free-range chickens, they all sit down “as humans” to talk them through and come to a solution together. Now, four years later, the Niwot Homestead bloomed from a vegetable garden to a permaculture-inspired and volunteer-run farm, complete with vegetables, perennials, fruit trees, pigs, and chickens. 

Scanes-Wolfe says these types of relational agreements must be centered in mutual respect—for everyone involved and the space itself. However, some people may want a more formal structure. For my own backyard farm, I have a contract with the homeowners that outlines which spaces I can use, who covers expenses, what protections are in place for liability, and other pertinent details.

Speedwell Farm & Gardens started growing in neighbors’ backyards in Boulder as well. It had contracts in place, and it would pay homeowners for city water use by comparing bills to previous years. Backyard farms may need infrastructure for things ranging from drip lines and irrigation systems to hoop houses or greenhouses. Be sure to discuss any infrastructure needs before starting, and be clear on whether you (the farmer) or the homeowner is responsible for costs and installation.

Learn More: Start small and turn your backyard into a snack yard with edible landscapes.

Investing in Real Estate as a Means to Farm 

Jamie and Doug Wickler were engineers, but the 2008 crash made them reconsider career paths. For a few seasons, Jamie Wickler worked at Denver Botanic Gardens farm. “I had aspirations of farming and knew I wanted it to be a family thing; I just wasn’t sure how,” she says , noting that most of the farms she saw had a million dollars of debt or unstable land leases. 

Jamie and Doug Wickler at one of their rental properties in Colorado. Photo courtesy of Wild Wick’s Farm

Coincidentally, the Wicklers decided to invest in a rental property as a retirement plan. They had bought their home in 2013, and they secured their first rental property in 2017 (when real estate was more affordable) with help from family and friends. Then came the aha moment—tenants wouldn’t want to maintain a yard, and the Wicklers wanted to farm. 

Wild Wick’s Farm was born, turning the yards at their own home and rentals into a diverse urban farm that grows more than 70 varieties of vegetables and cut flowers. They worked with banks to get a second rental property in 2018 and a third in 2020—all within a mile of each other. 

Tenants agree to not use any pesticides and allow the Wicklers access to the yard. “Most of the tenants really like that we maintain the properties,” says Wickler. “They see it as an eco model that is very interesting.” Plus, having multiple plots is great for their farm management strategy as they rotate crops seasonally to reduce pest pressure and replenish soil nutrients. 

When the Wicklers bought their properties in 2017-2020, real estate was significantly cheaper. Now, real estate prices have risen drastically, so Wickler’s advice for future farmers is to think outside the box. “With different industries that do make money,” she says, “how can it blend with land to make it more lucrative to farm?” 

Read More: How Agrihoods are offering a unique blend of urban and rural living to farm-curious Americans.
Leasing Farmland as a Collective

In Longmont, Colorado, Helen Skiba and Nelson Esseveld run Artemis Flower Farm, while Cody Jurbala and Melissa Ogilvie run Speedwell Farm & Gardens. In 2020, the two farms came together to form the Treehouse Farm Collective, a separate LLC that enabled them to put forward a strong proposal for a farmland lease and get approved. Luckily, they complimented each other—flowers and vegetables —and both farms had existing customer bases. 

Helen Skiba of Artemis Flower Farm. Photo courtesy of Artemis Flower Farm

Skiba started farming in the Peace Corps, coming back and working a small local farm in Colorado where she was introduced to growing and designing with flowers. She moved on to manage a two-acre cut flower parcel at a large market farm for a couple of years. 

Jurbala fell in love with vegetables through cooking, interning at a local farm in 2014, then taking an online urban farming course. That’s where he learned “that land access was the hardest part of somebody starting the farming journey,” and where he realized people’s unmaintained yards were the easiest access point. He used Google maps to scope, cold-called people and eventually found three yards in the same neighborhood to start farming with very little overhead.

However, both farms were on the hunt for a more permanent situation in 2020. “I knew I was going to continue farming, it was just a question of land access,” says Skiba. “So, what can I do? Can me and my husband buy land or afford land?”

After looking at several properties that didn’t work out, she came across a gem of a lease that had everything a farmer would need to get started on the right foot—17 acres with six suitable for farming, a greenhouse, and irrigation pond. But she needed a stronger proposal than just her farm could support. A mutual friend connected her to Jurbala, and the Treehouse Collective was born. Together, they were approved for the lease. 

The collective houses their two farms, and they sublease portions of the property to other businesses, currently a vermicompost venture (creating high-quality compost with worm castings) and a tool library for local farmers. 

They contribute their success to aligned land management philosophies and great communication. Monthly meetings allow for problem solving, but day-to-day conversations keep it harmonious. 

Jurbala highlights that the collective model is great for young farmers. “If you can take away some of the financial burden upfront and have community, that’s a big thing,” he says. 

Take Action: Committing to land ownership is a big leap, explore the realities of small scale agriculture with WWOOF.

Ranching on Public Lands 

André Houssney runs Jacob Springs Farm, a regenerative ranch that produces dairy, beef, lamb, pork, chickens, and wheat in East Boulder. Houssney came to the US as a refugee from the Middle East at age nine, growing up in Boulder and working on his neighbor’s farm. 

Andre Houssney in his milking parlor on Jacob’s Springs Farms. Photo courtesy of Jacob’s Springs Farms

After college, Houssney worked for nonprofits and started successful agricultural businesses supporting farmers in Africa. When he returned to Colorado, he was able to buy six starter acres, but he knew Boulder offered a unique opportunity—the city leases public Open Space land (undeveloped natural areas) to farmers and were looking for the next generation. He steadily grew his business and leased 800 private mountainous acres to graze dry cattle that don’t produce milk. For years, he applied for Open Space leases. 

“It wasn’t adding up,” he says, explaining that after each losing bid, he’d ask how to improve and get contradictory advice. “They continued to give land to the big guys, the old guys, the white guys,” he says, “even though I had the style of regenerative farming that they said they wanted.” 

When asked, Boulder County officials say they do not collect ethnicity or gender data in their proposals, but a representative did say that “a majority of our tenants are what you would likely consider your typical white and male farmer/rancher for the region.”

After years of rejections, Houssney appealed the decision citing inconsistencies in scoring. It was reversed, and he was selected for a 170-acre parcel with a milking parlor—a crucial element for his business to thrive. That was four years ago, but his struggle with bureaucracy is ongoing. 

Photo from Andre Houssney’s Instagram

Houssney’s story is not unique. Farmers of color and land stewards have been subject to discriminatory practices and land dispossession since this country’s inception, and it’s never stopped. In 1920, Black farmers owned 14 percent of US farms, but now, they own only one percent, as the number of Black farmers decreased by 98 percent over the past century. This is largely due to Jim Crow-era policy, the exploitation of heir’s property, which is passed down generationally without wills or titles, and the USDA’s discriminatory lending practices, which harmed BIPOC and women farmers, spurring massive land loss. 

If you’re interested in ranching on public lands, reach out to your city or county to see if they offer public land leases for agriculture. Ranching on public lands is common throughout the West, with the Bureau of Land Management administering 18,000 permits for ranchers to graze on public land, although it is less common to have a city or county lease land. Apply for a BLM lease if you’re in a state with a large amount of federally owned land.

 

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Backyard and Urban Farming: How to Start—Whether You Own Land or Not https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/backyard-and-urban-farming-how-to-start-whether-you-own-land-or-not/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/08/backyard-and-urban-farming-how-to-start-whether-you-own-land-or-not/#respond Thu, 01 Aug 2024 14:39:59 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=163546 The backyard and urban farming movement is becoming increasingly common in the Front Range area of Colorado and near many other urban centers. Since the lockdowns in 2020, more people are tending the land to which they have access, growing food and flowers or raising chickens in an effort to become either self-sufficient or supply […]

The post Backyard and Urban Farming: How to Start—Whether You Own Land or Not appeared first on Modern Farmer.

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The backyard and urban farming movement is becoming increasingly common in the Front Range area of Colorado and near many other urban centers. Since the lockdowns in 2020, more people are tending the land to which they have access, growing food and flowers or raising chickens in an effort to become either self-sufficient or supply fresh goods to their communities. Detroit has had a massive urban farm presence for more than a decade, with farmers using residential yards, apartment complex courtyards, and vacant lots to grow healthy foods for people in a city with high rates of food insecurity. With inflation rising and the cost of groceries becoming a burden for many families, it’s a perfect opportunity for urban and backyard farming to become even more widespread. 

How to start farming if you have access to land

FARMING YOUR OWN LAND: 

First you need to figure out the logistics:  

How much usable space you have. Determine the scale it can support and if that’s enough for your goal. Will you need to scale? How might you do that in a way that you can afford? 

Figure out your water access/irrigation. Look up whether your area has water usage laws (common in drier climates) and if it’s enough to support your needs. Experiment with water catchment systems such as rainwater harvesting or creating swales to reduce your costs and reliance on city water.

Will you need to work around a job? Think about what you need to have in place to integrate a farming job into your lifestyle. 

How profitable do you need to be to continue farming? Brainstorm ways to get there—through farm stands, markets, specialty crops, workshops, alternative farm-based income streams, etc. 

Determine if you will need labor support for tasks or markets.

IF YOU WANT SOMEONE ELSE TO FARM YOUR LAND: 

Alternatively, you may have a large yard and want it to be used for agricultural activity, but you are unable to run a farm yourself. You can offer it up to be used by someone else, and in return get an abundance of vegetables or flowers! 

Use community and social networks to your advantage. Ask around to find the right person to tend your land. Nextdoor, Facebook, your local farming community, or local National Young Farmers Coalition chapter are great places to start. You may even contact your city to see if there are organizations promoting urban agriculture that you could connect with to find a land tender. 

Discuss the following questions with anyone who might farm on your property: 

  • What are their land management practices? Do you feel comfortable with how they will be using your property? (For example, will they use chemicals, tillers, etc.) 
  • How often will they be there? Oftentimes, some farm work needs to be done in the wee hours of the morning when it’s cool. Have a conversation about what that might look like for it to feel good for everyone involved. 
  • What areas of your property will they be able to access? 
  • Will they be able to use city water or is there another water source available such as a well? 
  • Will you create a contract? Will you charge a rental fee or payment for water? Or will you allow everything to be used in exchange for some of what they’re growing? 

 

How to start farming when you don’t have access to land

Lean on your community, first and foremost. There are a lot of people out there who want to support local agriculture, and also don’t want to do yard work! Be sure to discuss upfront, in as much detail as possible, your vision for the space and anything you need to be successful. And just like with any relationship, this will take work! Practice clear and compassionate communication, and learn how to properly address and work through conflict. 

First, gain some experience. Apply for positions at local farms, start volunteering in community gardens—anything to help you understand what a successful farm needs. You’ll learn so much about seedling care, planting, caring for crops, harvesting, and marketing without having any personal risk involved. 

Use community and social networks to your advantage. Ask around to find someone who is willing to share their land. Nextdoor and Facebook are great places to start. 

Use Google maps and “cold call” neighbors with large yards. Write a nice letter and drop it in their mailbox, leaving your contact information so they can reach out if interested. 

Figure out what funding you need. Realistically, how much capital do you have or can you access to start farming? While you can do it in a lower-cost way, you will still need supplies, tools, seeds, and more. Can you use savings, or will you need to borrow or raise money? Costs will vary with scale, but having a good understanding of this before diving in is crucial. 

Discuss your land management plan with the land owners. While this may evolve and change, have a good idea of how you will care for the space. 

  • How long do you expect to use the space? What are your expectations or desires for scaling over time, and will that affect your use of the land? 
  • Are you willing to sign contracts or come to other forms of agreement? 
  • Will you use chemicals, or grow organically? If using synthetic chemicals, which ones? This is especially important if they have children or pets. 
  • Will you need to till or implement any infrastructure? 
  • Who will pay for what? For example, investing in things that will stay onsite permanently may be a shared expense. But infrastructure such as irrigation systems or drip lines that will only be used for farming may need to be an expense covered by you. 
  • Will it just be you on the property, or will others be involved (such as volunteers or paid labor)? 
  • Do you need liability insurance to cover your business and avoid personal risk? 
  • What boundaries (physical or relational) need to be in place to ensure that your crops are not damaged by kids, pets, visitors, toys, etc.?

 

Do you have other tips to share?  Let us know in the comments!

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Young Farmers Cultivating Change https://modernfarmer.com/2024/07/young-farmers-cultivating-change/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/07/young-farmers-cultivating-change/#comments Thu, 04 Jul 2024 14:27:52 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=157956 In June, Modern Farmer asked our community to tag exciting or inspiring young farmers. We received so many suggestions and wanted to share a few of these farms and farmers with you. We asked each of them to tell us what makes their farm special, why they each chose farming, and what advice they would […]

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In June, Modern Farmer asked our community to tag exciting or inspiring young farmers. We received so many suggestions and wanted to share a few of these farms and farmers with you. We asked each of them to tell us what makes their farm special, why they each chose farming, and what advice they would give to any future farmers out there.

This story is part of our Future Farmers series, highlighting the joys and hurdles of a career in agriculture today. 


Graeme Foers

Farm Name: Lost Meadows Apiaries & Meadery
Location: Essa Township, Ontario, Canada
Age: 33
Years Farming: 13

Tell us a bit about your farm: 
My farming season begins early February with the maple syrup season. I make maple syrup more traditionally with buckets and flat pans over fires outside. The season then turns to bees with my first queen graft right at the beginning of May. I produce around 100 queens per week for 12 weeks which are sold to beekeepers across Ontario. My queens are bred for a number of traits, but the most important being hygienic, mite resistant and overwintering ability. Aside from the queens my 200 hives make honey from around mid may to September. I keep the honey separate from each meadow and each month. This makes a huge range of different tasting honeys based on what was blooming and in what quantities when the bees collected it. I try and keep my bees away from commercial agriculture to help minimize the impact it has on my bees and also on influencing the flavor of the honey. I also own a small meadery on the farm with my sister, we use the honey from my hives to make the mead and have won several awards for it at the Royal Winter Fair in Toronto.

Why farming? What drew you to it as a livelihood?
I want to work at something that I find meaningful in life and that I feel I can leave behind as my contribution to society. For me that is through beekeeping and specifically breeding queen bees. My first beehive I had died and I was devastated. I decided that if I was going to have bees again I never wanted another hive to die, so I would have to be the best beekeeper I possibly could be. This lead me to queen rearing and eventually queen breeding and finding bees that are resistant to varroa mites, and other brood diseases, that are gentle and can thrive in this changing climate.

What advice or insight do you have for young people interested in farming?
Don’t stop believing in yourself, and try and be around people who believing you. Don’t be afraid to be part of the change even if a more experienced farmer tells you that’s not how to do it or its not the conventional way of doing it. Doing it your way may be the small difference you need to have customers buy your product and gain market share.

What are the barriers to being a young farmer, and how are you dealing with or overcoming them?
The biggest barrier for me is the extreme cost of everything from equipment to land and anything else involved like fuel and gas. I have had family members lend me some money for equipment purchases and I try not to expand too much at one time so I don’t stretch my resources too thin.


Greg & Amber Pollock

Farm Name: Sunfox Farm
Location: Concord, NH & Deerfield, NH
Years Farming: 5 years at Sunfox and total of 17 years of experience farming

Tell us a bit about your farm: 
Sunfox Farm is a small family operation in Central New Hampshire with a focus on sustainable and environmentally responsible agricultural practices. We specialize in growing sunflowers for oilseed production. A huge part of our business is agritourism, with our Annual Sunflower Bloom Festival being a quintessential summer event in the capital city of New Hampshire. We love reuniting people with the land and encouraging them to bring the whole family out to the farm! We grow using organic practices, and we’re currently working towards organic certification. We believe that by taking care of the earth, we can produce delicious and nutritious food that nourishes both the body and the soul. 

Our 2024 Sunflower Festival is August 10-18th. We have live music, local food trucks, and an artisan craft fair, with over 20 acres of sunflowers! In addition to the festival, Amber is a professionally trained chef and orchestrates seven-course, fine dining, farm-to-table meals in the sunflowers.

Why farming? What drew you to it as a livelihood?
There’s something truly magical about working outside and growing nutritious food for our community and family. It’s rewarding to see something through from start to finish—watching someone taste our sunflower oil for the first time and seeing their eyes light up makes us so proud. The work is hard, the days are long, our hands and feet are callused, and we wear our farmer tans with pride. We’re drawn to farming because it’s honest work, and it feels good to do it.

What advice or insight do you have for young people interested in farming?
You learn so much by doing. If you’ve never grown pumpkins, try it. If you’ve never set up an irrigation system, try it. If you’ve never changed the oil on a tractor, try it (with a little help from the owner’s manual). Farmers are jacks and jills of all trades, masters of none. It’s a perfect career for the curious mind. If you have even the slightest interest in farming, try it. The things you can learn are endless and it will always keep you on your toes. Farming isn’t ever perfect, but you can always find joy in the life of a farmer.

What are the barriers to being a young farmer, and how are you dealing with or overcoming them?
The biggest barrier we face as young farmers is land accessibility. Our dream is to someday own our own property, however, as of now we’ve only be able to secure leased or rented land. Finding a place to farm can make the adventure nearly impossible for many young farmers.

Another barrier is funding for equipment and infrastructure. Something that helped us was having a solid business plan. Within a year or two of starting our farm, we were able to provide well thought out projections and accounting documents. Being confident while discussing these items was integral in helping us acquire a loan to purchase our own equipment.


Sean Pessarra

Farm Name: Mindful Farmer
Location: Conway, Arkansas
Age: 36
Years Farming: 15

Tell us a bit about your farm: 
Mindful Farmer emerged from my desire to empower, educate, and equip the next generation of growers with appropriate technologies and tools tailored to small-scale farmers and gardeners, as well as sustainable and productive techniques. This inspiration struck when I worked at Heifer International and witnessed the challenges faced by small and mid-scale farms in the Southern US. Many struggled to find regional supplies and resorted to expensive shipping for products from distant sources. I also noticed that existing tools were often unsuitable for small-scale and beginning farmers, including many female farmers who make up a majority of newcomers to the field. In response, I designed multifunctional, scalable, high-quality tools with inclusivity in mind, setting the foundation for Mindful Farmer. I also set out to design high tunnels that were more affordable and approachable for beginning farmers.

Why farming? What drew you to it as a livelihood?
I’ve been in the farming industry for over a decade, starting my journey with part-time beekeeping while working as an environmental scientist in Texas. My passion for sustainable land stewardship led me to transition into sustainable agriculture in Central Arkansas. During this time, I managed organic vegetable production, conducted research, and hosted workshops. Farming, for me, represents a way to positively impact our environment, communities, and health. Witnessing the challenges conventional farming practices posed to our world’s health and the growing emotional and physical disconnect between people, their food, and the natural world, I felt a deep calling to be a part of the solution by promoting sustainable, regenerative agriculture. Farming as a whole is a dying trade, with the average age of farmers increasing and many farms consolidating under corporations and foreign entities. I believe that when farms are owned and operated locally, they are more motivated to steward the land well. This not only benefits the land and the farmer but also the local economy, public health, and the community as a whole.

What are the barriers to being a young farmer, and how are you dealing with or overcoming them?
Just as with the housing market, inflated prices, high-interest rates, and corporate competition have put farms and raw land out of reach for most young and beginning farmers. My wife and I dreamed early on in our marriage of raising our future kids on a farm of our own. Our oldest is 10 now, and we still have a ways to go. Without starting with a large sum of money or family land, the path is extremely steep. There is also a bit of a Catch-22 in that the jobs that give you the most agricultural knowledge often offer little in the way of disposable income to save up for a farm of your own.

Agriculture, especially small-scale sustainable agriculture, is a high-risk and low-margin industry. Most young farmers bootstrap the best they can as financial resources are hard to come by, often growing on leased land or going the route of small and intensive production.

 


Keaton Sinclair & Alanna Carlson

Farm Name: AKreGeneration
Location: Treaty Six Territory at Fiske, Saskatchewan, Canada
Age: 32 and 33
Years farming:  5 years (20+ years experience as a 3rd generation farmer)

Tell us a bit about your farm: 
We are connected to our family farm and do grain cropping and custom grazing using regenerative agriculture practices that prioritize plant and soil health. AKreGeneration is committed to restoring the land for generations to come, acre by AKre. Using the seven generations principle, we remember whose who came before us, and our decisions are guided by the seven generations that will come after us. Some of the different practices we use include: diverse crop rotation, cover crops, intercropping, low chemical use, biological fertilizer and seed treatment, soil amendments, and livestock incorporation.

Why farming? What drew you to it as a livelihood?
We grew up farming with our families and thrived working on the land and being connected to and learning from the plants and animals and other farmers. We see the regenerative farm as a good way to listen to the land, improve the soil health, natural ecosystem, nutrient integrity of the plants, improve profitability and enhance our lifestyle. We both got educations and live in the city, but are drawn back to the land, and want to farm in a way that is sustainable for us and the ecosystem. 

What advice or insight do you have for young people interested in farming?
Go get your hands dirty and get experience working on the land, any land. You might not get much for clear answers if you directly ask for advice. Build relationships. Join groups and unions. Find farmers that will spend time talking or working with you so you can learn different practices and principles; everyone does things different. Listen to their stories and wisdom and follow what you think is aligned with your plan. Nothing happens in a hurry.


 

Nick DiDomenico & Marissa Pulaski (DAR) || Azuraye Wycoff (Yellow Barn Farm)
Nick DiDomenico & Marissa Pulaski

Farm Name: Elk Run Farm | Yellow Barn Farm
Location: Longmont Colorado
Age: All are 33
Time Farming: Elk Run since 2015, over 9 years; Yellow Barn since 2020. 
 

In 2015, Nick DiDomenico set out to farm 14 deeply degraded acres in the foothills near Lyons, Colorado. There was only enough well water to irrigate less than an acre of de-vegetated property. When Nick reached out to the NRCS for advice on how to restore the land to a farmable state, they advised him to find another piece of land; without irrigation potential, there was no documented way to revitalize the land. From that moment, Elk Run Farm became a living experiment in how to restore deeply degraded land in a semi-arid climate without irrigation.

Today, Elk Run Farm is a thriving oasis in the high desert. Using passive water harvesting contour swales, 1000 trees and shrubs have been planted without irrigation, demonstrating a 79% survival rate across four years. What was a compact gravel parking lot is now five inches of rich topsoil that supports bioregional staple crops including blue corn, dry beans, amaranth, and grain sorghum. An average of 10 interns and residents eat 90% of a complete diet year round from the integrated forest garden, staple grain, and silvopasture systems on site.

In 2015, Drylands Agroecology Research (DAR) took over management of 14 deeply degraded acres on the Front Range of Colorado. The unprecedented regeneration of this land set the stage for our organization to grow.

Azuraye Wycoff and family

Established in 1865, Yellow Barn Farms was originally Allen’s Farm– an international equestrian center operating as a large-scale event and boarding facility with over 50 horses and 100 riders. Yellow Barn revitalized the land for low-scale, high-quality food production, community-supported agriculture, and sustainability education. In partnership with Drylands Agroecology Research (DAR), Yellow Barn researches, implements, and practices regenerative farming, animal management, carbon sequestration, soil health, and dynamic/adaptable organizational structures.

For too long modern agriculture has ignored the call of the land, exploiting its gifts and decimating thousands of species — species integral to the health of our ecosystem — to serve a single one.

Now, it’s time to make amends with the land, its inhabitants, and its original stewards. By implementing circular, regenerative, closed-loop systems, we’re engaging in a reciprocal relationship with the land, offering services like composting, workshops, farm-to-tables, indigenous-led celebrations.

Why farming? What drew you to it as a livelihood?
This work is for the future. This work is so that our children can have a future. Not just any future, but a future worth getting up in the morning for. A future to take pride in, to savor, to relish, to enjoy the sweet victory of laughter that glows on late into a summer night. The taste of fruit off the vine. Together with music and the smell of warm food and smiles. That’s what we want our children to remember us by.

In the last 4 years, it has become even more clear to us the distress that so many are facing in this time. It has become even more clear what is at stake. It has become even more clear what we have to gain. But throughout, the original instructions continue to anchor us: take care of our home, this Earth; take care of each other.

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Meet the Nonprofit Training Farmers and Feeding a Whole Community https://modernfarmer.com/2024/07/meet-the-non-profit-training-farmers-feeding-community-colorado/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/07/meet-the-non-profit-training-farmers-feeding-community-colorado/#respond Tue, 02 Jul 2024 12:18:02 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=157874 Throughout the summer in the Golden, CO area, you might see a big box truck full of local fresh vegetables hosting a pay-what-you can farmer’s market. Affectionately called Chuck, GoFarm’s mobile market truck travels to low-income neighborhoods, schools, retirement homes, mobile home communities and more. It offers local produce that GoFarm sources from 80 to […]

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Throughout the summer in the Golden, CO area, you might see a big box truck full of local fresh vegetables hosting a pay-what-you can farmer’s market. Affectionately called Chuck, GoFarm’s mobile market truck travels to low-income neighborhoods, schools, retirement homes, mobile home communities and more. It offers local produce that GoFarm sources from 80 to 90 farms every season, including small-scale urban farms, large family-owned farms and beginning farmers going through their incubator program. 

Virginia Ortiz with the GoFarm team on their farm in Colorado. Photo courtesy GoFarm

“Our vision is a strong, resilient, environmentally sustainable and equitable local food system,” says Virginia Ortiz, GoFarms executive director.

Ortiz sees GoFarm’s role as a hub that takes care of the logistics of supporting small farms and feeding the community. 

Building community partnerships is a crucial element, and GoFarm works with other food access organizations such as Hunger Free Golden and JeffCo Food Policy Council to reach more people and create a broader base of resources.

Founded in 2014, GoFarm started with its local food share program (essentially a CSA curated from multiple farms). More than a decade later, it has become an organization that trains and develops beginning farmers and creatively tackles the problem of how to get affordable, fresh food to the community. As a nonprofit, it is able to fundraise for grants and donations to support its programming and supplement that with revenue generated through produce sales. 

GoFarm’s incubator farmer program gives beginning farmers access to a quarter acre of land for the two-year duration of the program. The farmers receive all the training they need to plan, plant and manage a farm—regardless of their background. 

“The average age of current farmers is 55 to 59, and we know that, over the next 10 years, half of current farmers are going to retire, which means that we need to develop a new base,” says Ortiz. But she points out that there is a “tremendous need” for agricultural education.

Incubator farmers in an irrigation workshop. Photo courtesy of Lindsey Beatrice 

“Part of our goal is to change the paradigm of farm ownership. Currently, in Colorado, there are approximately 34,000 farms and only one percent are owned by people of color. Yet, 95 to 98 percent of farm workers are people of color, primarily Latinos,” says Ortiz, who shares that she comes from a long line of farmers and farm workers. She says she is proud that, in the farmer development program, 50 percent of participants are people of color, 65 percent are women and 40 percent self-identify as LGBTQ+.

Learn More: About GoFarm’s Farmer Assistance and Support Programs.

Moses Smith of Full Fillment Farms was an engineer who had gardened before taking GoFarm’s 20-week course and joining the incubator program. “The important thing was the Whole Farm Planning course that really focused on what it takes to actually grow food,” says Smith.

“One of the biggest benefits is that they not only provide us with land access, which is very hard as a starting farmer, but they also give us a market avenue,” says Ann Poteet of Three Owls Farm. As incubator farmers are establishing their businesses and learning how to generate their own markets, they sell produce back to GoFarm. 

Ann Poteet of Three Owls Farm and Moses Smith of Full Fillment Farms.    Photo courtesy of GoFarm

GoFarm’s local food share program feeds anywhere from 500 to 800 members each summer. Members come every week to pick up their share from a few different locations where GoFarm has refrigerated shipping containers to store food after it’s delivered by farmers. Plus, GoFarm takes Chuck out and about in Denver and Jefferson counties every week to ensure they can reach underserved populations that are challenged with food insecurity, disability, transportation and other barriers, such as the communities living in designated food deserts in south Golden. 

“I have an interest in nutritional insecurity,” says Poteet, who was a nurse practitioner before starting her farm. 

“It’s been really inspiring,” says Smith about being able to see his food nourish the community through GoFarm. 

Learn More: Interested in incubator farming or apprenticeship opportunities? Use the National FIELD Network Map to find one near you.

But farmer’s market prices can be high, as producers need to be fairly compensated for their labor and costs. “Customers were clear to us that having access to healthy food was critical to them and affordability was a barrier,” says Ortiz. So, in 2022, GoFarm found the funding it needed to implement a new solution that goes even further to improve accessibility for the 2,600+ households it reaches. 

Customers at its mobile markets can choose from one of three price tiers to shop that day, depending on their needs. For example, bags of mixed greens have three prices listed: $2 (purple), $3 (green) and $4 (orange). And the microgreens are even cheaper, at $1, $2 or $3 for a box. Pasture-raised eggs can be $3, $5 or $7 a carton. 

Flexible pricing sign with Chuck, the mobile market truck. Photo courtesy of Lindsey Beatrice

“You are what you eat,” says Kaylee Clinton, a first-time GoFarm mobile market shopper. “I just feel better about myself when I eat fresher.” As inflation has hit grocery stores, she says that SNAP has helped make food more affordable and she appreciates that GoFarm lets shoppers pick their price point. “I really love it. I think it’s great for everybody.” 

“Typically, I either buy green or orange. I like buying orange when I can. It’s good to have the flexible pricing,” says Ed Gazvoda, who has been shopping at GoFarm for years. “I want to live a good, long, healthy life, so it’s a personal thing, but I just love the food.”

Jess Soulis, director of the Community Food Access program, highlights that accepting SNAP’s DoubleUp Food Bucks—where shoppers essentially get a 50-percent discount—is just one way to make food more affordable. The group also partners with WIC’s Farmers Market Nutrition Program, where participants get a credit to shop. Through its market locations at Littleton Advent Hospital and Juanita Nolasco Senior Residences, the program offers shoppers $10 worth of produce for free. SNAP/DUFB account for 13 percent of its mobile market sales, but all of these incentives combined are closer to two-thirds.

“We’re building this beautiful, vibrant, local food system and we don’t want to replicate the injustices and inequities that are so prevalent in the existing food system,” says Soulis.

The vision continues to grow. The only limitation? “Infrastructure,” says Ortiz. GoFarm is currently seeking out refrigerated warehouse space along the I-70 corridor between Golden and Montbello. 

“That area is important because we need to make it accessible to farmers along the Front Range,” says Ortiz. “With that refrigerated warehouse space, we could easily source from more farmers, distribute more food and serve more communities.”

 

 

Read More: Interested in starting a farm or supporting new farmers? Check out our Q&A with Young Agrarians.

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The Future is Farmers https://modernfarmer.com/2024/06/future-farmers/ https://modernfarmer.com/2024/06/future-farmers/#respond Thu, 27 Jun 2024 19:57:35 +0000 https://modernfarmer.com/?p=157820 At Modern Farmer, we believe that creating a sustainable and equitable food system is only possible with small, local, and family farms. But North America is facing a farmer shortage. The average farmer is just under 60 years old, and the trend of inheritance within families is declining, which means there is a need to […]

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At Modern Farmer, we believe that creating a sustainable and equitable food system is only possible with small, local, and family farms. But North America is facing a farmer shortage. The average farmer is just under 60 years old, and the trend of inheritance within families is declining, which means there is a need to train the next generation of farmers. 

There are also huge benefits to supporting new farmers. Aside from bolstering our food supply, new and young farmers tend to bring unique new perspectives to the field, including a dedication to sustainable farming methods. According to the National Young Farmers Coalition’s (NYFC’s) 2022 National Young Farmer Survey, 86 percent of young farmers practice regenerative farming—growing in harmony with nature—while 97 percent use other sustainable practices.

However, for young people interested in a career in agriculture, there can be many roadblocks in their path. The price of land continues to rise, grants and educational opportunities can be hard to come by and there’s a steep learning curve for folks who didn’t grow up in a farming family. 

With these stories, we spoke to young farmers directly about how they see farming as a viable future and what they need to succeed.


 

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